September Sapphires

Sapphire and diamond "Copacabana" ring by Chopard

Welcome to beautiful Sapphire September! (I am a bit biased about this stone because it is my birthstone)
Sapphire is a variety of corundum. It is an oxide mineral and is a 9.0 on the Mohs hardness scale. It is an excellent for any type of jewelry. 
The name Sapphire comes from the Greek word sappheiros meaning ‘blue stone’.  But sapphires are not just blue, they come in every color of the rainbow except red. Red corundum is called Ruby. 
Trace elements such as iron, titanium, chromium, copper, or magnesium can give corundum a blue, yellow, purple, pink, orange, or green color.

Beautiful rare velvety purple 8.00ct sapphire in a platinum setting with diamond accents by  Robert Procop.

Diamond and Golden sapphire necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels

Sardonyx

A Roman sardonyx cameo of Minerva from the Julio-Claudian period circa 1st century AD. Sold by Christie’s.

The second of August’s birthstones is sardonyx. This is a very underrated stone in my opinion. 
Sardonyx is a variety of Agate with parallel bands of white (or black) contrasting with the brownish-red (sard) body color. Because of its layered nature sardonyx stones have been and are ideal mediums for cameo, intaglio and relief carving.
Agate in turn is a variety of chalcedony which is a variety of quartz. It has a mohs hardness of 6.5-7. 
 

Kathleen Marino MA, GG, AJP, NAJA

Peridot

The largest cut peridot olivine is a 310 carat specimen in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of the Smithsonian Museum

Welcome to August and a very happy birthday to all of the August babies out there! You have two great birthstones peridot and sardonyx. Here is a little about peridot.
Peridot is gem-quality olivine. Olivine is a silicate mineral and has a mohs hardness of 6.5-7. This is almost smacked dab in the middle of this hardness scale so don’t be afraid to wear it in any type of jewelry. 
Olivine in general is a very abundant mineral, but gem quality peridot is rather rare. Peridot olivine is mined in Arkansas, Arizona on the San Carlos Reservation, Hawaii, Nevada, and New Mexico at Kilbourne Hole, in the US; and in Australia, Brazil, China, Egypt, Kenya, Mexico, Myanmar (Burma), Norway, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Sri Lanka, and Tanzania.
Peridot ranges in color from yellow, to yellow-green, olive-green, to brownish, sometimes a lime-green, to emerald-ish hue.

Photo courtesy of Bonhams

This late 19th century peridot necklace, was sold by Bonhams Auction House in 2011.

Zircon

We are marking the end of the year with another of December’s birthstones: Zircon

In the past when many people heard the word “zircon” (a naturally occurring gemstone) they immediately jumped to something more familiar, “cubic zirconia” (a man-made diamond simulant). In the current market, consumers have become more savvy in understanding that there is a difference; however, even though many people may have heard of zircon very few have ever encountered it.

Red Zircon Crystal, Kunar Prov., Afghanistan Photo courtesy of http://www.marinmineral.com/

Some gemologists classify zircons into three types—high, intermediate, and low.
The majority of zircon is generally of the low and intermediate variety. This is directly related to the chemical makeup of zircon. Zircon a zirconium silicate containing trace amounts of the radioactive minerals hafnium, uranium and thorium. Over time, these radioactive components can break down and destroy the internal lattice of the crystal (over tens of thousands of years). This leaves the zircon with an amorphous structure that has a pithy appearance. “Intermediate” zircon is also exposed to the damaging effects of radiation but to a lesser extent than low zircon.
Virtually all zircon that is used in jewelry is of the “high” variety. Zircon that is of the “high” variety is geologically “young” and virtually unaffected by radioactivity. These high zircons have full crystal structures and as a result, they have the normal physical and optical properties which are compatible with faceting. "High" zircon can also be heat treated to create colorless, blue or golden stones.

The many colors of Zircon Photo courtesy of GIA

The stone comes in a beautiful array of colors including warm browns and lovely shades of cinnamon, sherry, yellows, oranges, and reds. The most well known of the colors are the vibrant bright blues (which may be enhanced by heat treatment). It has been estimated that approximately 80% of all zircons sold are blue, and usually command a slightly higher price. Blue topaz is often offered as a less expensive alternative.
In the early 1900s zircon was often used as a diamond simulant. Due to its doubly refractive nature, zircon displays a high amount of “fire”, even greater than that of diamond, adding to the appeal of the stone. As new technology emerged it was replaced with more convincing look-alikes including many imitations, and it’s name still brings to mind the word “imitation today”. This is sad because zircon is a beautiful stone with a wide range of colors and its own charming history and lore.  

Zircon Ring ca.1850 Photo Courtesy of the Victoria and Albert Museum

"Many scholars think the stone’s name comes from the Arabic word zarkun, meaning 'cinnabar' or 'vermilion.' Others believe the source is the Persian word zargun, or 'gold colored.'  Considering zircon’s color range, either derivation seems possible.” (GIA).
In the Middle Ages, zircon was believed to aid in sleep, keep away evil spirits, and promote riches, honor, and wisdom. 

Cat's-eye Zircon Photo courtesy of GIA

 
Blue zircon especially was a favorite of the Victorian Age. Zircons are usually relatively free of inclusions, but many untreated zircons may have a cloudy or smoky appearance. If it’s very noticeable, this can negatively affect price. In Victorian times, this smokiness made zircon a popular gem for mourning jewelry.
The majority of modern zircon that is used in jewelry will not have eye visible (visible to the naked eye) inclusions.  Long, parallel, visible inclusions can make the stone desirable when it is cut into a cabochon because it may create the cat’s-eye effect.

It’s a challenge to cut zircon because the gem is brittle. Cutters usually fashion zircon in the brilliant style to take advantage of its luster and fire. In the past, cutters developed a modification of the brilliant cut, known as the “zircon cut,” which uses eight extra facets around the pavilion (the gem's lower portion). In modern times this is rarely seen, as the added labor required makes it not cost effective. Zircon can also be found in step cuts (rows of parallel facets), and mixed cuts (a combination of brilliant and step-cuts). 

The fact that the gemstone has been passed over for so long is an absolute shame. Gemologist and author/researcher George Kunz (a famed gemstone buyer for Tiffany & Company) attempted to rename the stone “starlite”, owing to zircon’s high fire, to promote the gemstone. However, the name failed to catch on and over time the stone seemed to fall by the wayside. There may be a potential upside to the relative obscurity of zircon though. Analysts in the gem industry have stated that zircon has yet to reach its full potential in value, and it will only appreciate in value so it may be an excellent time to branch out and embrace the beauty of zircon.

The final word:
Zircon is Not Cubic Zirconia! Zircon is a naturally occurring mineral found in the earth. Cubic zirconia is a man-made diamond simulant. They have both been used in place of diamonds, though cubic zirconia is used much more commonly than zircon in modern times. The differences are easy for a trained gemologist to spot. When in doubt ask an independent gemologist.

Basic Information:
Formula: ZrSO4, May contain minor U, Th, Pb, Hf, Y/REE, P and others.
Crystal Systems: Tetragonal
Hardness: 7-1/2
Color: Yellow, Clear, Blue, Pink, Brown...etc
Lustre: Adamantine, Vitreous, Greasy
Mineral Group: Zircon
Major sources: Major sources of zircon are the Chanthaburi area of Thailand, the Palin area of Cambodia, and the southern part of Vietnam. 
Misc: Eye visible, strong double refractivity. This causes high fire that is more noticeable in light colored stones but may be seen even in darker stones. 

Turquoise: The Desert Beauty

A turquoise and gold ring which once belonged to Jane Austen Sold by Sothebys

The most traditional birthstone for the month of December is Turquoise and  the zodiacal stone for Sagittarius. Opaque, varied blue colors that has been used for centuries in jewelry and in decorative ornaments.

If cold December gave you birth,
The month of snow and ice and mirth,
Place on your hand a turquoise blue;
Success will bless whate'er you do.

Turquoise is found in various locations around world that all share the same characteristics: dry, arid, barren and possessing acidic, copper-rich ground water. This ground water creeps downward it reacts with other minerals. The product of this process is the compound of hydrated copper and aluminium phosphate known as turquoise.

The deposits of turquoise usually form in iron-rich limonite or sandstone. The remnants of these host minerals (called the matrix) are what leave the veins or splotches on the turquoise. (Limonite creates the darks brown markings and the sandstone creates tan markings)
The texture of turquoise is a result of both its structure and composition. If you look at turquoise under a microscope you may see that it is actually an aggregate of microscopic crystals that form a solid mass. The closer the crystals are packed, the finer the texture and the less porous the material. Fine textured turquoise has a shiny waxy luster when it is polished, while less dense turquoise results in a duller luster.

Turquoise from Bisbee Arizona

The porosity also affects the stones' durability with the less porous turquoise possessing less toughness. Because of the decreased visual appeal and the lesser amount of durability more porous turquoise is often treated to make it smoother, shinier, and more marketable.

                                                                                                                                                                                  Most people will be familiar with vein like black matrix running through the vibrant blues or greens; however, the most expensive and prized turquoise has no matrix showing. The second most valuable is a thin web like matrix that is evenly distributed throughout the stone.This really is personal preference, and some turquoise lovers may find imperfections part of the charm.

Turquoise is very soft, ranking a 5-6 on the Mohs hardness scale. This makes the stone ideal for carving and artists throughout history in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and  the Americas have utilized it as a medium for both jewelry and art objects.

Turquoise has a long and varied history (that continues to this day) of being used as talismans, amulets, or religious artifacts as it has been attributed to have special power and meaning to various cultures. The ancient Egyptians, Meso-Americans, Native Americans and Tibetans have believed in the special powers of turquoise for centuries. Some believed that turquoise can protect its wearer from harm, others thought that it brought good luck or longevity, and some uses and meaning have been lost to history.

                  Egyptian middle Kingdom faiance hippo
                                       The MET Museum

The high value placed on fine turquoise caused many imitations to be made. The first of which dates back to ancient Egypt: a glazed earthenware material called faience. Later glass, and enamel were used. In modern times plastic, porcelain, composites of minerals were used. In 1972 the closest “synthetic” turquoise was produced by Pierre Gilson. I put synthetic in quotes since it is actually called a simulant owing to its chemical composition differing from actual turquoise due to a bonding agent. The simulated turquoise is available in both fine and spiderwebbed varieties.

The most common natural stone imitators of turquoise that might be encountered are dyed howlite and magnesite. These stones are both white in their natural state and contain black veining.

All of these imitators are fairly easy to identify by a  trained gemologist and many can be identified by the general consumer as well.

Basics:
Chemical Formula: CuAl6(PO4)4(OH)8•4H2O Copper containing basic aluminium phosphate
Hardness: 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale
Formation:Turquoise occurs as botyroidal (grape-like) masses or nodules in fissures.
Found in: Currently the finest quality turquoise is found in Northeast Iran. Major turquoise deposits are also found in Afghanistan, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, China, Israel, Mexico, Tanzania and the USA.