Mark Davis: Hypercrafted Jewelry

Founded in 1999, Mark Davis is an ultra-niche designer and manufacturer of "hypercrafted" luxury goods. Mark’s expert use and adaptation of alternative materials is one reason that his jewelry is so special. By applying the exacting techniques of the haute joaillerie to materials not traditionally considered “fine,” Mark has created collections remarkable for their freshness and exceptional distinctiveness. 

While each collection has its distinct characteristics, all share important attributes. Quality is paramount in every respect: Mark works in close collaboration with his team of highly skilled artisans to realize his designs and to maintain exceptionally high standards not often offered today. A tremendous amount of manual labor—using both ancient jewelers’ techniques and modern manufacturing methods—is invested in every Mark Davis piece. Every item is meticulously handmade in their New York City studio. Nothing is mass-produced, and most pieces are one of a kind. Those created in multiples are available only in limited quantities.

POLYOXYBENZYLMETHYLENGLYCOLANHYDRIDE A.K.A. BAKELITE

"SUGARLOAF" RING OF LAMINATED, HAND-CARVED, VINTAGE BAKELITE "SCRAPS" MOUNTED IN 18 KARAT GOLD.

Invented by Leo Baekeland in New York in 1907, Bakelite was the first completely synthetic plastic material. It contained no petroleum or plant-derived ingredients. The development of Bakelite changed the course of mankind and the planet. Unfortunately, all the changes have not been good. Some of the properties that made Bakelite so remarkable 100 years ago have come to haunt us today. Bakelite does not melt and cannot be recycled like most petroleum plastics. Its once-desirable durability becomes a liability when it enters the waste stream.

The vintage Bakelite used in Mark's products is an example of recycling in its purest form. They repurpose material that cannot be recycled, preventing it from entering the waste stream in the first place. By treating it like a precious material, has essentially elevated its status to highly desirable as well as beautiful.

Mark Davis bakelite jewels depends on exacting techniques of working the bakelite that are similar to those employed for natural ivory, but without ivory’s associated ecological devastation. In addition, the bakelite offers a range of colors and patterns that are unique and remarkable in their own right. Thermosetting resins cannot be melted and reformed. They must be reformed by hand with labor-intensive techniques. Every piece is individually subjected to a combination of sawing, carving, filing, sanding and polishing. All work is done by hand in their New York City workshop.

VINTAGE BAKELITE BANGLES WITH 18 KARAT GOLD WIRE INLAY AND AMETHYSTS.

BANGLES CREATED FROM VINTAGE BAKELITE WITH 18 KARAT GOLD WIRE INLAY AND PERIDOT.

Mark Davis chooses to use the term “bakelite” with a lowercase “b” as a blanket term to identify a wide range of vintage thermosetting resins. These include Bakelite, Catalin, Prystal, Beetle, Galalith and others. All of the bakelite they use are vintage material which they have searched the world for. They cannibalize material from wherever they find it, including old clocks, jukeboxes, game pieces, lamps and billiard balls.

WOOD

WOODEN BANGLES INLAID WITH VINTAGE BAKELITE AND SET WITH COLORED GEMSTONES MOUNTED IN 18 KARAT GOLD.

WOODEN BANGLES INLAID WITH VINTAGE BAKELITE AND SET WITH COLORED GEMSTONES MOUNTED IN 18 KARAT GOLD.

The woods used in Mark Davis jewelry are selected for their natural beauty, durability, and sustainability. The wood that is used is from managed resources or naturally fallen trees, as well as wood reclaimed from architectural demolition. All woods are presented in their natural colors: no dye, stain, or paint are uses on them. Depending on the physical characteristics of the type of wood used, the pieces are finished with a natural wax or a more durable lacquer.

GOLD AND PLATINUM

HAND-CARVED VINTAGE BAKELITE "SUGARLOAF" RING MOUNTED IN 18 KARAT GOLD.

Mark Davis has choosen to use only recycled eighteen karat gold and platinum in our jewelry. All of the precious metals come from suppliers that are as committed to environmental stewardship as Mark Davis is.

SUSTAINABILITY

EVEN THEIR EARRING BACKS ARE HAND-MADE. THEY DO NOT USE COMMERCIALLY PRODUCED STAMPED BACKS. 

"By its very nature, our jewelry is the most eco-friendly fine jewelry in the world. That is not an exaggeration. With only very few exceptions, our fine jewelry is, on average, created from 80 percent post-consumer recycled materials. In some instances, that number rises to more than 95 percent...
We have corporate policies in place that ensure an aggressive reduction in the amount of disposable consumables used in both our administrative and production operations every year. We also financially support environmental organizations that are working to remediate and prevent environmental damage to the world we all live in.
The precious metals used in our products, as in almost all jewelry produced today, are recycled. We purchase our gold, platinum and silver from suppliers who have received independent, third-party certification confirming that the metals are indeed recycled. Additionally, our suppliers have received independent, third-party certification of their refining processes and systems. If not properly and responsibly executed, the reclamation and refining of precious metals can be almost as harmful to the environment as the production of newly mined ore. By working with suppliers who are regularly subjected to rigorous auditing and testing, of both their products and processes, we can confidently assure our customers that the precious metals in our products are eco-friendly."

MARK DAVIS

Born in Manhattan, Mark spent his formative years in Malaysia. An aesthete since childhood, he was expelled from the International School of Kuala Lumpur for refusing to wear a uniform he considered ugly. His expulsion notwithstanding, Mark returned to New York to attend Parsons School of Design, the Fashion Institute of Technology and New York University.

An internship in Christie’s jewelry department followed by a job with an estate jeweler in Manhattan afforded Mark the opportunity to handle a tremendous number of fine and exceptional jewels. These experiences were instrumental in teaching him both about the importance of fine craftsmanship and the value in working for himself.

Mark began designing and producing his first line of jewelry in 1999, and the fashion press quickly took notice of his distinctive aesthetic. Just months after they were created, his first pieces appeared in Harper’s Bazaar, W and Elle.

Fascinated since childhood by all things mechanical, and convinced that exceptional production methods are as important as fine design, Mark built a complete in-house production facility, where he conceives, designs and produces his jewelry along with a team of skilled artisans who work under his close direction.

Mark’s aesthetic is frequently described as “future classic.” Even when the materials used are vintage, his jewelry has a distinctively contemporary feel that is current without being trendy. His continual development of new designs and concepts offers clients an ever-expanding selection to discover, enjoy and collect.

Visit the Mark Davis website for more information. 

Björn Weckström: Lapponia and Princess Leia

Björn Weckström

Björn Weckström

Björn Weckström, the designer behind Lapponia, received an interesting phone call in spring 1976. George Lucas's secretary placed the call to inquire about commissioning silver jewelry pieces for a new movie that Lucas currently had in production - the title of the movie was never revealed during the call. Lucas was specifically after jewelry designed by Björn Weckström. The scene for which the jewelry would be needed was going to be filmed in approximately 6 weeks. 
George Lucas was not a known name in Finland, and Weckström didn't know him either, but he was intrigued by the project. Space and science fiction themes had been present in his earlier work, so the thought of designing jewelry for a space adventure movie was fascinating.

leiajewelry

Weckström started to sketch a necklace suitable for the movie, but his work was soon interrupted when Lucas's secretary contacted him again. There had been a change in the filming sequence of the scenes, and the jewelry would be needed already in a week's time – a week was too short for that. Weckström had to tell the secretary that the situation was impossible.
The conversation then turned to Lapponia's existing collection. The movie was currently being filmed at the Elstree studios near London and several jewelry stores in Europe kept Lapponia's products in stock. As luck would have it there was a Lapponia retailer on Bond Street in London. Weckström gave the address to the secretary who said that the production team would go and look at the collection available.
In the store the production team had found just the right kind of jewelry for the scene and later sent a message to Weckström that stated that Lucas thought the jewelry was fantastic. Weckström was happy for the success, even though he still didn't know in which movie the jewelry would be displayed. There was no communication from the production team after the last message.
Star Wars premiered in Finland as late as on 16th of December 1977. A friend of Björn Weckström's saw one of the first screenings of the movie in Finland, and immediately recognised Weckström's jewelry in the final scene of the movie (the award ceremony). Carrie Fisher (Princess Leia) wears the necklace "Planetoid Valleys" and "Darina's Bracelet" as she presents medals to Luke Skywalker (Mark Hamill) and Han Solo (Harrison Ford).
Soon, Weckström himself went to see the movie. Seeing his own jewelry on a big screen, in an international movie was quite an experience. When designing the Space Silver collection in 1969, Weckström could not have imagined that the pieces would become a part of a cult phenomenon.

Poema, Björn Weckström

Poema, Björn Weckström

The interruption of the design work that was started for the movie later bothered the designer and after seeing the movie, Weckström returned to his original sketches. From these sketches he developed his ideas further. The Poema necklace was based on the original design, and this necklace was manufactured in limited series during the 1990's.
Planetoid Valleys and Darina's Bracelet are still available in Lapponia's collection: 

Planetoid Valleys
Darina's Bracelet

Sources:
IMDBWikipedia, Lapponia archives, Lucasfilm Ltd