Kristjan Eyjolfsson Brooch Visits the Chelsea Flower Show Once Again

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II at the Annual Chelsea Flower Show 2017

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II at the Annual Chelsea Flower Show 2017

The brooch was inspired by the Iris Unguicularis, is made from 100% recycled British white gold and features over 100 ethically sourced gemstones, including a single conflict-free yellow diamond at its center.

The brooch was inspired by the Iris Unguicularis, is made from 100% recycled British white gold and features over 100 ethically sourced gemstones, including a single conflict-free yellow diamond at its center.

Queen Elizabeth II stepped out to take in the Chelsea flower show wearing an iris inspired brooch by Icelandic jeweler Kristjan Eyjolfsson that she first debuted during her 2013 private visit to the flower show. 

In 2013, for the show’s Centenary, Kristján designed and hand-crafted limited edition pins available to Chelsea Charity Gala Preview guests. The pins were inspired by the Calanthe x veitchii orchid flower, which was produced in the nursery belonging to Sir Harry Veitch, the nurseryman who first brought the Royal Horticultural Society Flower Show to Chelsea. All profits of their sale went to support the charitable work of the RHS.

The brooch worn by her majesty was inspired by the Iris Unguicularis. It was commissioned by the Royal Horticultural Society and presented to Her Majesty on the occasion of her Diamond Jubilee in 2012. The brooch is made from 100% recycled British white gold and features over 100 ethically-sourced gemstones, including a single conflict-free yellow diamond at it's center.

Eyjolfsson said of the brooch: "I am honoured to see Her Majesty wearing this brooch, which represents not only the RHS' gratitude for her patronage but also increased visibility of ethics and sustainability in fine jewellery. The brooch is not as glittery as some of her other pieces as it was designed to be a private piece to be enjoyed by a very famous monarch."

Visit the Royal Horticultural Society to read more about the flower show. 

Oscar Heyman: The Jewelers' Jeweler

There is a new book about Oscar Heyman coming out that I am super excited to get my hands on. It hits shelves on April 25th, but you can order yours now on Amazon!

For the past 95 years, Oscar Heyman & Bros. has sat ... at the helm of jewelry royalty. ―Antiques & Fine Art Magazine (2007)
Since its founding in 1912, Oscar Heyman & Brothers has created fabulous jewels for some of the world’s elite houses, causing it to be known in the trade as “the jewelers’ jeweler.” The Heyman Brothers arrived in New York from Eastern Europe in the early 1900s, bringing with them their training in their uncle’s workshop. The company quickly established a name for itself in the industry, working with top houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co., producing superbly constructed, beautifully designed pieces with the finest materials. The firm is still family run, and now retails merchandise under its own name, specializing in working with unique and colorful gemstones, cut and polished in their own workshop.
This lavishly illustrated history reveals “the jewelers’ jeweler” to the wider public, following the firm’s growth from its origin as a Russian immigrant family enterprise in New York City to its establishment as an important ally of major retailers throughout the global jewelry trade. Enhanced with dazzling photographs of new and vintage pieces, as well as brilliant, full-color design drawings from the firm’s archives that are works of art in their own right, Oscar Heyman: The Jewelers’ Jeweler reveals Oscar Heyman’s important role in the story of modern American jewelry.

Web of Light

It is the perfect time of year for Paul Morelli to have release his gorgeous "Web of Light" jewelry. Like the webs created by the industrious spider Morelli's designs are intricate and delicate, with less creep factor and more wow factor. 

"When spider webs unite, each is an intricate strand in the web of life."

 


For more on Paul Morelli see my July Newsletter

Pantone's Fall 2016 Colors

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Pantone's Fall 2016 color campaign is entitled: A Unity of Strength, Confidence and Complexity. Leatrice Eiseman Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute™ has this to say about the palette:

"The desire for tranquility, strength, and optimism have inspired a Fall 2016 color palette that is led by the Blue family.
Along with anchoring earth tones, exuberant pops of vibrant colors also appear throughout the collections. Transcending gender, these unexpectedly vivacious colors in our Fall 2016 palette act as playful but structured departures from your more typical fall shades.
Blue skies represent constancy as they are always above us. Grays give a feeling of stability, Red tones invite confidence and warmth, while the hot Pinkish Purples and Spicy Mustard Yellows suggest a touch of the exotic."

I am a big fan of this palette. I feel like the colors really embrace the variety of moods that embody the autumn season. Warm plays with cool and muted neutrals contrast against vibrant brights. I was once again inspired to put together a list of gemstones that I think are great representatives of this palette. So get into your cozy sweater, pour yourself a warm drink and enjoy.
(Click for the Spring 2016 Pantone Gemstone List

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"Earmarking the importance of Blue in the palette, the new blue shade of PANTONE 17­-4028 Riverside undeniably takes precedence in the fall collections. Cool and calming, strong and stable [Riverside] displays a subtle vibrancy and sophistication. The color borders on exciting, yet maintains a sense of constancy"

When I saw this color I immediately thought of a bright sapphire that borders on cornflower blue.  For a slightly less expensive option I went with a nice denim colored Lapis Lazuli. 


"Pantone 14-4122 Airy Blue’s lofty nature evokes feelings of lightness and freedom. Designers seeking weightlessness in a world heavy with conflict." 

This beautiful soft color immediately called to mind blue topaz, however I also thought of a much less well known stone; Blue Larimar. Larimar is a trade name for the blue, gem-quality variety of a mineral called pectolite. Pectolite commonly occurs in gray tones and is not especially rare occurring in many locations around the world.
Blue Larimar is found only in one location in the entire world - the Dominican Republic. Blue Larimar is a hydrated sodium calcium silicate with manganese. Its blue color is due to calcium being replaced by copper impurities. Larimar is also often mixed with other materials such as calcite and hematite. Its color can vary from white to light-blue, and from medium sky to volcanic gray blue.


sharkskin

"There’s an edge to PANTONE 17-3914 Sharkskin, and yet it manages to remain neutral. [The color is] pair-able with almost any fall color, bright or muted [as it is a] color that the rest of the palette can rest on" 

If you read my article on Fall stones last year (read it here) you'll know that I am a huge fan of gray tones for fall. It's a moody color that can be either warm or cool. It can be worn on it's own as well as being a perfect neutral that plays well with virtually every other color. 

I wanted to give this fantastic neutral it's due so I have chosen three very different stones. The first is agate with swirling grays, creams, and charcoals. The second is cultured South Sea silver/grey pearl. The metallic look can add a bit of drama, and pearls come in many different sizes and qualities. The third option is a bit different. I chose a grey tourmaline because it has a beautiful watery look that can easily be used in either a dressed up or everyday jewelry piece. 


red

"In contrast to the stable backbone of the Fall 2016 palette, PANTONE 18-1550 Aurora Red adds a welcome punch. A bold Red that is warm, sensual and immediately pleasing to the eye [and] gets the metaphorical blood of the palette pumping. [The color is] exciting and dynamic, [and] breeds unmistakable confidence."

This red color really punches up the fall palette and made me think of maple tree leaves bursting into flames of color. Again I chose three gemstones that I think will add a little pizzazz.

The first is a red toned fire opal. This non-phenomenal version of opal often gives the appearance of having an internal glow, like the embers of a fire on a cold night. Red spinel has been gaining more attention in the recent years. In June of this year the stone was in the headlines when it was decided that it was to be August 's newest birthstone.  My third choice is Red Pyrope Garnet,  basically I see this stone as a slightly less expensive version of spinel. It has much of the same character and can be just as vibrant, but with less of a dent put in the pocketbook. 


taupe

"PANTONE 16-1318 Warm Taupe is a hearty, pleasing and approachable neutral that pairs well with each of the top 10 shades of the Fall 2016 season. [Warm Taupe] suggests reassurance and stability. [It is a color that is] trusted, organic and grounded]."

Taupe is one of those timeless colors. It will warm up a cool fall day. The first stone that I chose has a slightly more golden undertone. Moonstone is a soft looking stone that pairs well with cozy looks. Smoky quartz has a lovely warm tea like color, and with a relatively low price point you can easily go big with this gemstone. The slightly more unusual choice is fossilized coral. The lovely pattern is intriguing and adds interest without needing a lot of embellishment.


cedar

"Like Airy Blue, PANTONE 18-1630 Dusty Cedar gives a nod to the PANTONE Color of the Year 2016, Rose Quartz.
[Dusty Cedar is] a fall and winter version of the Pinks we’re used to seeing in spring. [It is a] dustier rose-toned Pink shade with some complexity [that] exudes warmth and welcome."

This dusty rose has a wonderfully old fashioned feel to is. I chose stones that maybe aren't as well known in the jewelry world. The first is a stone with a little bit of interesting controversy surrounding it. 

Andesine-Labradorite/Red Feldspar: "Andesine-labradorite" came onto the gem scene in 2003, so it is a relative newcomer. It is typically a reddish orange color, along with traces of green and yellow with a faint metallic luster known as labradorescence. The problem with andesine-labradorite is that it was originally sold without disclosing it's true origins and that it was color enhanced. The gemstone was presented as being from South America's Andes Mountains (hence the name 'andesine'). Later it was discovered that it was not actually a new mineral called 'andesine', but actually color-enhanced 'labradorite'. The name 'andesine' was very misleading. In an attempt to correct the problem, 'andesine' was later hyphenated to 'andesine-labradorite'. The trade name is widely used, but it is also referred to as just 'andesine', 'red labradorite', 'Congo sunstone', and 'red feldspar'.

The second stone that I chose is not controversial, but it is also a relative newcomer. Rhodochrosite was first described in 1813, but wasn't introduced to the market until around 1940. It was named the state mineral of Colorado in 2002. Rhodochrostie is a softer stone and you will usually see it carved, made into beads, or cut into a cabochon.


green

"PANTONE 18-5845 Lush Meadow brings to mind fresh botanicals and foliage. [It is evocative of] rich and elegant, vibrant and sophisticated. This shade displays a brightness, panache and depth of color that elevates it from more natural greens [adding even more] elegance woven through this season’s collections."

My immediate thought when I saw this color was malachite. It's rich green tones are perfectly lush and full of life. Malachite is frequently cut into large stones and beads so don't be afraid to go big with a statement piece! The second stone that I chose is a classic green tourmaline. It is a stone that is easy to find and even a small tourmaline will create a pleasing pop of color. The reason that I chose tourmaline over emerald is essentially for the reason that is a more affordable stone in this color, though if price is no concern then emerald would also be a lovely representative!


mustard

"PANTONE 14-0952 Spicy Mustard is an exotic addition that bounces elegantly off other colors in the palette. [It] adds another splash of uplifting vibrancy; a spicier, zestier Yellow than previous seasons"

I am absolutely envious of anyone that can wear mustard colored clothing (a color that looks awful on me)! On the bright side you don't have to be able to wear mustard well to indulge in these spice inspired gemstones!  I've gone with an inviting golden beryl as my first choice. Second up is the more unusual rutilated quartz which contains beautiful (often golden) rutile needles. Rutilated quartz is one of the few gemstones desirable because of its inclusions! My third choice is a vibrant sapphire. The yellow-orange color will really stand out on a gray day. 


potters

"PANTONE 18-1340 Potter’s Clay has an added degree of sophistication and layering. [It possesses] elements of russet. Orange in its undertones, gives a grounded feeling that’s anything but flat. [It is a] neutral earth tone; expected for fall and winter palette [possessing] real substance; a strong foundation."

One of my favorite gemstones leads the charge in this color. Hessonite garnet is a wonderful choice to bring in the warm tone for fall. In fact this member of the grossularite garnet group has earned it the nickname cinnamon stone. Hessonite also has one of my favorite observable internal characteristics. When viewed under magnification the stone exhibits a "scotch-in-water" or "heat wave" effect cause by tiny included crystals crowded together to create a swirling effect. For those of you that are in the go big or go home category I would suggest carnelian agate. The stone still has the warm cinnamon tone but with less cost and larger sizes.  


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"PANTONE 17-3240 Bodacious speaks to the gender fluidity we continue to see. [Bodacious] lends itself to vibrant color combinations [that are] unexpected in fall. [The color is] versatile; can be used with Pinks and Reds. [The] bright, rich Purple, with hints of a more sophisticated Pink."

This bright fun color can bring a smile to your face and a bounce to your step! The first gemstone I chose is rhodolite garnet.  Rhodolite is a mix of pyrope and almandine garnet. It gets its name from the Greek word, "rhodon", meaning "rose colored". The second stone that I chose is cheerful bright pink sapphire. This flirty color will get you through the gloomy days for sure!

For more information on Pantone's Fall 2016 Palette please visit their website. Stone images courtesy of GemSelect

Happy Birthday Tiffany & Co.

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On this day in 1837, Tiffany and Co. was founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany. In honor of this American jewelry icon I thought we would celebrate with a few beautiful pieces that are part of the MET museum's (Metropolitan Museum of Art) collection in New York. 

Tiffany & Co. (1837–present) ca. 1890. Made in New York, New York, United States. Gold, diamond, and enamel. Photo courtesy of the MET Museum.

"Related to the extraordinary enameled orchids displayed by Tiffany & Company at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, this flower pin with a textured gold stem and diamond-set leaves is enhanced by a single diamond dewdrop set amid the realistically rendered purple enamel petals. The gentle arc of its stem and the naturalistic blossom reflect the Art Nouveau style, which inspired jewelers toward the end of the century. The enameled orchids were designed by Paulding Farnham (1859–1927) and were exhibited at Tiffany's New York showroom prior to their departure for Paris. The New York Sun reported on March 17, 1889, that the jewels attracted more attention "than any flower show, display of orchids, or any other of nature's beauty ever brought together in this city."

Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York). ca. 1904. Gold, silver, platinum, black opals, boulder opals, demantoid garnets, rubies, enamel. Photo courtesy of the MET Museum.

 

"After Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany & Company, died in 1902, his son Louis Tiffany was able to pursue artistic jewelry without reticence. He began working on this pursuit in 1902 to prepare himself for the St. Louis fair of 1904, where he exhibited twenty-seven pieces of jewelry. Tiffany Furnaces initially produced the jewelry, but after 1907 Tiffany & Company acquired Louis's artistic jewelry department. This hair ornament is one of the most extraordinary pieces of Tiffany's surviving jewelry, incorporating a remarkably realistic rendering of two dragonflies resting on two dandelion seedballs. Tiffany designed the hair ornament for Louisine W. Havemeyer, who, with her husband Henry Osborne Havemeyer were among Tiffany's most enlightened and devoted patrons. The hair ornament was known only from archival photographs in the collection of the Tiffany & Company Archives until Louisine's great-granddaughter brought it to the Museum's attention. The piece epitomizes his earliest jewelry designs, which were based directly on modest forms in nature, such as field flowers and wild fruit, as well as his affinity for enameling and semiprecious stones with unusual colors. The dragonflies rest on dandelion seedballs, one of which is shown partially blown away, underscoring the fragility of nature. Highly skilled artisans conveyed the transparency of the insects' wings through delicate metalwork filigree. The temporal quality is revealed in the subject: dragonflies rest in one place for mere seconds before flitting away; dandelions disperse into thousands of airborne seeds with the gentlest of breezes."

Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York)
Date: ca. 1904. Opals, gold, enamel. Photo Courtesy of the MET Museum.

"This necklace, composed of grape clusters and leaves, is one of the earliest known examples of jewelry designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Tiny black opals represent the clusters of fruit, and finely executed enameling in shades of green on gold forms the delicate leaves. Opals appealed to Tiffany for their fiery glow, reminiscent of his vases in Favrile glass. The asymmetry of the design and its organic shapes are entirely in keeping with his passion for natural forms. This necklace was among the twenty-seven pieces that Tiffany made for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in Saint Louis in 1904. It has been altered twice since its original conception, first by the addition of grape clusters on either side of the central pendant and later by the addition of a double bar-link chain. These changes were probably overseen by Tiffany himself, who is believed to have presented the necklace to his nurse and later companion, Sarah E. Hanley."

The MET Museum

Pearls and Pools: Olympic Swimmer Kathleen Baker

Olypmic silver medalist Kathleen Baker in her signature pearl earrings

Lost earring found

Lost earring found

On Sunday, August 7th during the preliminaries for the 100m women’s backstroke, American swimmer (silver medalist) Kathleen Baker lost one of her signature pearl earrings to Rio’s Olympic pool, the depths of which reach almost ten feet. Thankfully, a diver went down to search for the earrings, and ultimately recovered it from Baker’s lane around the 15 meter mark. 

The story has a happy ending, but it does bring up a few cautions for anyone who wears their jewelry swimming or who may be thinking of adopting some good luck swimming pearls of their own.  

The most obvious thing to consider is that jewelry can and will fall off. Earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and rings all have ways of finding themselves falling to the bottom of pools, lakes, rivers, and oceans all over the world. If you're lucky you will find them again, but more often the pieces are gone for good. 

Now you may say "but I can lose my jewelry on dry land as well!" I would agree with you, but there is a less obvious but possibly even more serious concern when it comes to swimming in jewelry. 

pearl crosssection

Pearls
Both natural and cultured pearls are covered in a luminous substance called nacre. In natural pearls this layer has built up over an immense amount of time and is incredibly thick (hence their high cost and relative rarity), in the more common cultured pearl the nacre present on the surface of the seed material (see image). The nacre contains some organic proteins and also calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate dissolves when it comes into contact with acid. Even mild acids (perfumes, lotions, hairspray, and makeup) can weaken the structure of the pearl’s nacre and eventually dissolve its beautiful shine. 

The chlorine used to purify water is actually sodium hypochlorite, the same stuff you find in household bleach. This particular type of chlorine is highly oxidizing, and has a tendency to destroy a pearl’s luster on contact. Over time the pearl's nacre will come off, leaving a cloudy surface; it may even peal off in layers while the inside continues to disintegrate (it's not pretty, trust me).

Precious Metals
So while all that is happening to your pearls, your metal is going through an equal amount of hardship. 
Chlorine can react with precious metals, including gold and silver. If you’re in the pool every day or cleaning with bleach products it can cause pits in the gold’s surface that look like little dents. Chlorine can actually break down gold jewelry to the point of disintegration. A gold ring, placed in undiluted bleach, can disintegrate within minutes of exposure. Stress corrosion cracking can also occur in any weak joints of the jewelry or areas where it has been repaired. In general, platinum doesn’t react with chlorinated pool water, but some platinum rings contain gold solder that can. 

But I have to wear it!
If you absolutely must wear jewelry in the pool then the best metallic material to wear is stainless steel, specifically type 316 stainless steel, which is resistant to chloride attacks from sweat and sea water. Titanium alloys also stand up well. If you are firmly on board the pearls-in-the-pool train then I suggest imitation pearls. There are various types of imitation pearls from plastic, to glass, or shell. The relative inexpensive nature of the imitations means your heart and your wallet wont break when an earring is lost or dissolved in the pool. 

No matter what your jewelry’s made of, one thing is certain: all of that sweat and chlorine will dull its brilliance, so make sure to clean it. Most colored gems can be cleaned in warm water with mild soap and a soft brush. Precious metals should be cleaned similarly. When in doubt about cleaning jewelry make sure you ask! Gemologists are here to help. 

Enjoy your gemstones and metals out of the pool. (Olympic Silver Medalist Kathleen Baker)

Enjoy your gemstones and metals out of the pool. (Olympic Silver Medalist Kathleen Baker)

Solid Gold Godzilla Hits the Market

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To mark the 60th anniversary of Godzilla and the new Hollywood film, Tokyo jeweller Ginza Tanaka is offering this solid gold Godzilla.

The website Fashion Press is reporting that the nearly ten inche tall 33 pounds statue is being sold by Ginza Tanaka for 150 million yen (US$1.47 million). 

The gold movie icon will be on display this month and next month in Tokyo and Osaka.

Source: Fashion Press News

Announcement: Youtube

Hi everyone! 
I some exciting news. I have started a YouTube channel. I already have a video review of a really exciting photo product up and ready for you to check out!

You can also read more about the triple d photo kit by clicking here

Pantone's Spring 2016 Colors

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After a long and dismal winter it is exciting to see signs of Spring and one of those signs is the return of color. 
In their release statement Panatone says that their Spring color palatte, "Spring 2016: A Transporting and Transformative Canvas", contains  colors that "transcend cultural and gender norms. Vivid brights give way to excitement and optimism, though quiet stability prevails in this season’s palette. For Spring 2016 there are truly no perceivable distinctions in color choices between the men’s and women’s collections, both of which focus on a desire to breathe and reflect, then play."  

When I see color my mind immediately turns to gemstones (hazard of the job), so today I wanted to interpret the amazing mix of uncommon neutrals and vivid brights into gemstones. Some are obvious and some are not so. I had fun playing with color and I hope you do too!

ROSE QUARTZ: "Rose Quartz, a persuasive yet gentle tone that conveys compassion and a sense of composure. Like a serene sunset, flushed cheek or budding flower, Rose Quartz reminds us to reflect on our surroundings during the busy but lighthearted spring and summer months."
For this color the most obvious choice was the best choice. Rose or pink quartz is just what the name says, a pink variety of quartz. The muted pinks are a perfect way to usher in Spring. 

rosequartzpantone

PEACH ECHO and MALAY GARNET: "The fashion and design communities, and consequently, consumers, have been in love with orange for several seasons. Coming to the fore this Spring is, Peach Echo, a shade that emanates friendlier qualities, evoking warmth and accessibility. It is an all-encompassing, tempered companion in the playful orange family."
Malaya (malaia) garnet is one of the rarer and more interesting 'hybrid' varieties of garnet. It is primarily a mix of pyrope and spessartine, which was first discovered in the 1960s. The term "malaya" was derived from a Swahili word meaning 'outcast'. Miners gave it this name because when it was first discovered, local dealers wouldn't buy it, simply because it didn't fall into any of the standard garnet categories and it was cast aside! This is an absolute shame because the pinkish-orange colors of the stone are simply stunning. 

peachecho

SERENITY and SAPPHIRE: "Weightless and airy, like the expanse of the blue sky above us, Serenity comforts with a calming effect, bringing a feeling of respite even in turbulent times. A transcendent blue, Serenity provides us with a naturally connected sense of space."
Considered one of "the big 4" in the gemstone world, sapphires are available in every color of the rainbow excluding red (red is ruby). The perfect compliment to Serenity is a cornflower blue sapphire. It exudes calm but also provides a nice pop of color. 

SNORKEL and LAPIS LAZULI: "A maritime-inspired blue, Snorkel Blue plays in the navy family, but with a happier, more energetic context. The name alone implies a relaxing vacation and encourages escape. It is striking yet still, with lots of activity bursting from its undertones."
Lapis Lazuli (often called just 'lapis'), has been used as a gemstone for thousands of years. It has been mined from Afghanistan since the early 7th millennium BC. It was discovered in ancient burial sites throughout the Caucasus, the Mehrgarh and even as far as the Republic of Mauritania. The funeral mask for the ancient Egyptian pharaoh 'King Tut' was also decorated with lapis lazuli! 

snorkel

BUTTERCUP and LEMON QUARTZ: "With Buttercup designers reveal a shining beacon transporting its wearer to a happier, sunnier place."
Quartz is once again a great choice to bring the bright yellow color into your wardrobe, and because it is slightly less expensive it is a great way to bring large statement pieces in without breaking the bank. 

LIMPET and ZIRCON: "A shade of aqua that leans toward the green family, Limpet Shell is clear, clean and defined. Suggestive of clarity and freshness, its crisp and modern influences evoke a deliberate, mindful tranquility."
Zircon occurs in a wide range of colors, but the beautiful aqua blue is a perfect match! To read more about this amazing stone click here.

limpet

LILAC GRAY and SPINEL: "As in most any season, the need for neutrals arises. Essentially a basic, the subtlety of the lilac undertone in, Lilac Gray, adds a distinctive edge to this classic gray shade."
Gray can easily be kind of a downer color if you let it, but grey tones gemstones are anything but boring. Spinel is a hard vitreous magnesium aluminium oxide that has been used as a gemstone for centuries. The beauty of spinel has even caused it to be mistaken for ruby and sapphire in the past. The lilac color is a beautiful way to accent this interesting neutral from Pantone. 

FIESTA and SPESSARTINE GARNET: "The high energy Fiesta is a harbinger of excitement, encouraging free-spirited exploration to unknown but welcoming locales. A strong and fiery, yellow-based red, the vivid Fiesta provides a stark contrast to the calming, softer nature of this season’s palette."
Spessartine garnet in a redish hue provides the perfect punch to match this vivid color from Pantone. The name "spessartine" comes from the Bavarian word, "Spessartine", meaning "forest", which is a mountain range in Germany where spessartine garnet deposits were found in the 1880s. Spessartine was not often seen in jewelry until deposits were discovered and mined Namibia and Mozambique in the 1990s.

ICED COFFEE and SMOKY QUARTZ: "A transitional color that will take us through the seasons, Iced Coffee manifests as another strong neutral for the season. With its natural earthy quality, the softness and subtlety of Iced Coffee creates a stable foundation when combined with the rest of this season’s palette."
There are a surprisingly large number of "brown" gemstones (I happen to be a huge fan of brown stones). I chose Smoky Quartz because I wanted to (again) choose something that is relatively less expensive because having the option to create large statement pieces is always nice. 

GREEN FLASH and TSAVORITE GARNET: "Green Flash calls on its wearer to explore, push the envelope and escape the mundane, radiating an openness that combines with the rest of the palette in unexpected but serendipitous ways. The popularity of this brilliant hue is representative of nature’s persistent influence even in urban environments, a trend continuing to inspire designers."
Tsavorite is one of the most impressive members of the Garnet family. Tsavorite/lite was named in honour of the Tsavo National Park and the Tsavo River which flows through it. The name was proposed by the former president of Tiffany & Co., Henry Platt, who had followed the developments of the gemstone from the very beginning. A beautiful and lush color for Spring!

Jewelry that Speaks Volumes: Madeleine Albright

Today is International Women's day so it seems fitting to talk about a woman who shattered a huge glass ceiling and whose brilliant diplomacy extended beyond just her words: former U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright.

Albright became the highest ranking woman U.S. history when she was appointed to the position of U.S. Secretary of State in 1997 by President Bill Clinton. Before that becoming secretary of state, Albright was the U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations. Albright was not only the first female Secretary of State, but also the first top diplomat to turn jewelry into a communication tool. 

Pins are not discussed in any diplomatic handbook, but Albright's quick wit and sense of humor made her jewelry into a useful diplomatic tool.  It was during her time as ambassador that Albright began to use her jewelry, specifically her brooches, as a means of sending non-verbal pointed messages and opening lines of communication with world leaders. “It would never have happened if not for Saddam Hussein,” she wrote in her book, Read My Pins: Stories From a Diplomat’s Jewel Box.  Albright recalls that it all began in 1993, just after the Gulf War: 

"It all began when I was at the United Nations. It was right after the Gulf War and the United States was pressing for resolutions sanctioning Iraq. During that time I had something dreadful to say about Saddam Hussein on a daily basis, which he deserved because he had invaded Kuwait. The government-controlled Iraqi media then compared me to an “unparalleled serpent.” I happened to have a snake pin, and wore it to my next meeting on Iraq. When the press asked me about it, I thought, “Well, this is fun.” I was the only woman on the Security Council, and I decided to get some more costume jewelry."

Serpent Pin, circa 1860. An eighteen-carat gold snake coiled around a branch, with a diamond dangling from its mouth.

A second brooch reinforced her approach. This brooch was a blue bird. Until the twenty-fourth of February 1996, she wore the pin with the bird's head soaring upward. On the afternoon of that day, Cuban fighter pilots shot down two unarmed civilian aircraft over international waters between Cuba and Florida. Three American citizens and one legal resident were killed. At a press conference, Albright denounced both the crime and the perpetrators, "I was especially angered by the macho celebration at the time of the killings. "This is not cojones," I said, "it is cowardice."" To illustrate her feelings, she wore the bird pin with its head pointing down, in mourning. Her comment departed from the niceties of normal diplomatic discourse, and caused an uproar. Albright held her ground. She says of the incident that, "As a rule, I prefer polite talk, but there are moments when only plain speaking will do."

Albright's brooches were often her way of "plain speaking" without saying a word, and over time reporters, staffers and world leaders learned to read her pins. "As it turned out, there were just a lot of occasions to either commemorate a particular event or to signal how I felt," she says. On good days, she wore flowers, butterflies, and balloons, and on bad days, all kinds of bugs and carnivorous animals. Jewelry became part of her personal diplomatic arsenal and everyone had taken notice.  

"I had an arrow pin that looked like a missile, and when we were negotiating the Anti-Ballistic Missile Treaty with the Russians, the Russian foreign minister asked, “Is that one of your missile interceptors you’re wearing?” And I responded, “Yes. We make them very small. Let’s negotiate.” Or, after we found that the Russians had planted a listening device—a “bug”—into a conference room near my office in the State Department, the next time I saw the Russians, I wore this huge bug. They got the message." 

Blue Bird, circa 1880. Anton Lachmann, Austria. Photo by JohnBigelow Taylor.Albright wore this blue-bird pin when, in 1996, airplanes carrying four Cuban-Americanfliers were shot down off the coast of Florida. 

Interceptor missile. 1998. Lisa Vershbow. USA.Albright wore this Interceptor missile pin when she visited the Russian president,Vladimir Putin.

Albright has said that she loved expressing herself with her jewels, and that making fashion statements — and commenting on each other's attire — is not completely unheard of within a diplomatic setting:

"You think that the heads of state only have serious conversations, [but] they actually often begin really with the weather or, 'I really like your tie.' "

That being said I think I can safely say that the former Secretary of State's brooches are far more intriguing than conversations about the weather, because behind every brooch are a thousand plainly spoken words.

This peace dove, ca. 1997, by Cécile et Jeanne of France, was a gift from Leah Rabin, widow of
Israeli Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin. Among Albright’s favorites, the pin symbolizes the goal—peace in the Holy Land—“for which the prime minister had given his life,” she wrote.

Bee, Designer Unknown, USA. c. 1980.  Photo by John Bigelow Taylor.For a meeting with Yasser Arafat, Albright wore this bee pin. She writes, "I spent manyhours wrangling with the Palestinian leader about the need for compromise in the MiddleEast. My pin reflected my mood." (He sent her a butterfly.) 

"Because I am by nature a worried optimist (as opposed to a contented pessimist), I found many opportunities to wear my brooch of a brilliantly shining sun,” Albright wrote. This “Sunburst,” of gilded brass, was made in 1987 by Hervé van der Straeten of France.

“I was proud to be the first woman to serve as secretary of state. ... This is a pin showing the glass ceiling in its ideal condition: shattered.” The pin, called “Breaking the Glass Ceiling,” was made around 1997 by American artist Vivian Shimoyama, of dichroic and painted glass.

If you want to read more about Madeine Albright's pins and diplomacy I encourage you to buy her book. 

Iradj Moini Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, See No Evil, 2000. "When I went to Russia with President Bill Clinton for a summit, I wore a pin with the hear-no-evil, see-no-evil, speak-no evil monkeys, because the Russians never would talk about what was really going on during their conflict with Chechnya. President Vladimir Putin asked why I was wearing those monkeys. I said, because of your Chechnya policy. He was not amused."


How do you wear a torc? From the British Museum

The Snettisham Great Torc. Found in Snettisham, UK. Electrum, 150 BC–50 BC. Diam. 19.9 cm. British Museum 1951,0402.2. (Photo: (c) The Trustees of the British Museum)

We've all seen these historical beauties, whether in museums or in articles, heavy gold torcs sometimes with elaborate designs. But have you ever wondered how you would wear such an item?
The British Museum recently addressed this issue in their blog.

How do you put on a torc?

Julia Farley, Curator, European Iron Age collection, British Museum; January 29, 2015

Although this is one of the most famous examples, the form is typical: open at the front, with a flexible neck-ring made of coiled or twisted wires. This type of torc is put on and taken off by being bent out of shape. You can see that one of the terminals of this torc has been pulled slightly forward compared to the other one. This is the result of it being repeatedly pulled open to be slipped on. A re-enactor friend of mine has told me that he often puts a torc on from the front, and then twists it round to bring the terminals to the front. I’ve tried with replicas, and I tend to slip mine on from the back, so there are different ways of doing it.

This constant flexing caused a lot of stress to the metal neck rings of the torc. When you bend metal in this way, it tends to harden and become brittle. You may have experienced this first hand if you have ever wanted to break off a piece of wire for hanging a picture or working in the garden and did this by bending it back and forth until it broke. The same thing happened to some torcs. We have many examples of truly beautiful neck-rings which were worn to destruction – taken on and off so many times that they broke at the back. They have often been somewhat clumsily repaired, as in this case:

(Photo: (c) The Trustees of the British Museum)


The break is covered with a thin sheet of gold foil, but X-radiography of the torc shows that all the wires have snapped! Torcs were quite fragile objects, and they were frequently broken and then repaired in this way. This is curious, because there was an easy way to avoid the problem. If you anneal the metal – heat it up to cherry-red temperature, around 600-700 degrees centigrade – it re-softens. This would have been a simple matter with the technology available. So why were so many torcs allowed to break? And why do the repairs often look like shoddy afterthoughts? I wonder if being the proud owner of a ‘vintage’ torc (old enough to be in need of flamboyant repairs) might have been something to be proud of. Rather than an unfortunate accident, breakage could have been part of the natural lifecycle of a torc. The repaired torc pictured above was buried in a hoard with many other, much newer, ones. By the time it went into the ground, it was probably an heirloom object, perhaps as much as 100 years old. It would have been possible to carry out much more subtle repairs, but perhaps they were supposed to be obvious? Being a member of a family with such a long history of wealth and power was probably a source of great pride, and the repairs might have emphasised the age of the object, and reminded people of the many stories attached to it.

On the Continent, there are other types of torc, which sometimes have clever hidden clasps, hinges, or removable sections such as these ones:

(Photo: (c) The Trustees of the British Museum)

When worn they would have given the impression of a solid ring of metal, but in fact they were relatively easy to put on and take off.

The idea of a hinge was taken up in later British neck-rings found in south-western Britain. They have a discreet hinge at the back, and a clasp at the front that was hidden when the terminals were closed.

(Photo: (c) The Trustees of the British Museum)

From these kinds of evidence, I strongly suspect that torcs were put on and taken off quite regularly, rather than being intended to be worn for very long periods of time. The most decorative were probably worn for special occasions, and some of the simpler designs may have been for everyday wear. But we have so little evidence for what constituted ‘day-to-day wear’ in the Iron Age that it’s hard to be sure.

But there are some torcs which I don’t think could be opened up, such as this one from Trichtingen in Germany, also in the Celts exhibition:

Torc. Silver, iron, 200–50 BC. Trichtingen, Germany. Diam. 29.5 cm. (Photo: P. Frankenstein/H. Zweitasch; (c) Landesmuseum Wurttemberg, Stuttgart 2015)

The gap isn’t wide enough to squeeze your head in, and there is a solid iron core under the silver, so it couldn’t have been bent. It also weighs nearly seven kilos! And if you did wear it, which way up would it go? It seems designed to be viewed upright, like in the picture. But with the terminals at the back the bulls would have been hidden, and with the terminals at the front their heads would be upside down, not to mention how uncomfortable those horns would be, sticking into your collar bone…

I think it’s most likely that torcs such as the one above weren’t worn at all. They might have been symbols of status to be brandished aloft, rather than worn around the neck, just like the way that the antlered god on this plaque from the Gundestrup cauldron hefts a torc into the air, terminals upright. However it was used, the torc was obviously a powerful symbol.

Cauldron. Silver, partially gilded, 100 BC–AD 1. Gundestrup, Denmark. Diam. 69 cm; H. 42 cm. (c) The National Museum of Denmark.

Cauldron. Silver, partially gilded, 100 BC–AD 1. Gundestrup, Denmark. Diam. 69 cm; H. 42 cm. (c) The National Museum of Denmark.

Read the entire article HERE
The museum's companion book (Celts: art and identity exhibition catalogue) is available for purchase as well HERE

Computer Geek Chic

I have been going through a massive struggle with my computers lately. In all honesty there have been many times that I just wanted to through my hands up and walk away from technology. But I know that they are necessary so I decided to combat my temporary pain with a tongue in cheek look at some "wearable tech" jewelry. 

2 Roses Studio

Roman Ring: Micromosaic of electronic components with a pearl. 

The Key To Titan Ring: Sterling silver, electronic components,
Mexican fire opal.

Hi Tek Mosaic: Sterling Silver, 24kt Gold, Circuit Board,
Electronic Components, Kuem Bo. 20 inch Dia. 

If you feel like trying your hand at making your own jewelry (or maybe you just want to work out some computer related frustrations) check out the easy "do-it-yourself" from instructables

Embracing The Blues

December lays claim to three beautiful birthstones; Zircon, Tanzanite and Turquoise. Each of these gemstones are available in various unique blue tones. So embracing the December blues might not be such a bad thing when it comes to gemstones!

Sensational Zircon

Zircon Diamond Gold Dangle Earrings, OFFERED BY SIXTH AVENUE FINE JEWELERS

Retro 8 Carat Intense Blue Zircon Platinum Ring, Offered By Rive Gauche Jewelry

Matched Blue Zircon Gold Princess Dangle Earrings, OFFERED BY SZOR COLLECTIONS

Tantalizing Tanzanite

Dangling Tanzanite Tear Drop Diamond Gold Earrings, OFFERED BY TAKAT

Beaudry Diamond Tanzanite Platinum Enagement Ring, OFFERED BY DOVER JEWELRY

Barbara Heinrich Tanzanite Gold Necklace, OFFERED BY SZOR COLLECTIONS

Terrific Turquoise

Late Victorian Era Turquoise Old Diamond Halo Ring, OFFERED BY ERAGEM

Turquoise Diamond gold Ear Clips, OFFERED BY JACOB'S DIAMOND & ESTATE JEWELRY

French Turquoise Diamond Gold Locket, OFFERED BY BELL AND BIRD

Some of My Favorite Things

diamond1.jpg

Gemstone and jewelry themed items (and a few other misc. things) that I currently love! Click on the pictures if you want to take a closer look or buy any of the items!
I'm going to try to make one of these posts every couple weeks (especially for the books) so keep an eye out!

Books

Home, Beauty, & Misc. 


Cuddle up To Fall Gemstones

Autumn is a time for fall leaves, and (if you're into them) pumpkin spice lattes. It is also a time to cuddle up on cold gray rainy days. The change in temperatures bring a change in fashion. Darker neutrals appear, soft grays and blacks keep us warm on the darkening days. Punches of color that match the changing leaves are obvious choices to spice up a wardrobe; less obvious are the colors that match those rainy days and evoke the "cuddle up" feeling.

Teal stones can add subtle color without overpowering a neutral outfit. Apatite is relatively unused in most mainstream jewelry. It can have a unique teal color that ranges from a bluer to greener tone. With a Mohs hardness, of 5 it is not the best choice for a ring, but it is well suited for other jewelry that takes less daily abuse. 
Matched sets of apatite can be difficult to find; however, this leaves a great opportunity for necklaces or unique accent stones in earrings. 

If you like a stronger blue with a moody edge "London blue" topaz might be your stone. Unlike Apatite its hardness of 8 makes it an excellent choice for any type of jewelry. It is also a very affordable stone, even in larger sizes. Larger stones can make for wonderful statement rings. 

 

Blue zircon can have a teal-like hue in darker colors that sometimes exhibits a greenish hue when viewed at certain angles. Blue zircon is the most popular zircon color.
Zircon has another distinction that can make it stand apart from other stones, it has an extremely high refractive index, which gives it great fire and brilliance. This makes it similar to a diamond and a great alternative to a diamond of the same color. Irradiated blue diamond can also come in a teal color, but are generally available (and affordable) only in small sizes. 

Gray Spinel

Gray Spinel

Gray gemstones are often very overlooked. This is perhaps because there are not many faceted gray gemstones that are popular in mainstream jewelry, but gray stones have much to offer. In particular, cabochons and beads in these unique and often affordable stones can make you stand out from the crowd. 
Starting off the list of faceted gray gemstones is spinel. Spinel can often have a grayish, grayish-violet, grayish-blue or grayish-pink color. The are also usually untreated and affordable gems in these colors. The hardness of 7.5-8 makes these excellent stones for all jewelry types.

Natural gray sapphire from Deliqa Gems

Natural gray sapphire from Deliqa Gems


One of my personal favorites when it comes to gray stones is gray sapphires, which often have an appealing violet undertone. They are however, rare and rarely used in jewelry. If you can manage to find one, they are wonderful stones. With a hardness of 9 they are excellent for use in all jewelry and because gray is considered an ‘undesirable’ color in sapphires the prices can be relatively low.

Many of the grey cabochon cut stones are also available in bead form and offer a lot in the way of variety of looks. Hematite cabochons have a striking gun-metal gray color, with a metallic luster. They are also available in almost every shape and size at an affordable cost. This can be a beautiful choice for the transition from the warmer months. Another well known cabochon choice is Labradorite. It has a lighter gray body color with a beautiful iridescence, known as "labradorescence". Colors of blue, violet and gold dance on the surface of the gem adding a subtle hint of color. 
Moonstone is yet another beautiful choice. Moonstone can range from a milky white, to peach, to clear with a flash of blue, to gray. The soft colors evoke the look of cozy sweaters and soft cashmere scarves. 

Other choices include the swirling grays of Botswanna agate, snowflake obsidian, and gray veined howlite.  If you are adventurous there are gray cabochons that are not as well known such as pietersite, which can have a gray to midnight blue body color with silky luster. Seraphinite is also a relative unknown to the general public. The stone, which tends to be greenish-gray, has soft, feathery silver fibers. 

A natural gray pearl necklace sold for a record $5.1 Million at a Christie's auction

A natural gray pearl necklace sold for a record $5.1 Million at a Christie's auction

Pearls are a popular choice for gray jewelry. They are available in various price ranges as well as many shades of gray, from pale to dark, bluish- or greenish-gray South Sea pearls. Smooth, blemish-free, symmetrical pearls with sharp, bright reflections are the most highly-prized.
Misshapen (called "baroque") pearls can offer the wearer more unique looks and designs than standard spherical pearls.


It wouldn't be right to not mention the stunning gemstones that are October's birthstones in this list as well. Tourmaline comes in a rainbow of colors to fit the wearer's desires, including moody teal-ish blues like indicolite as well as a darker steely gray. 
Likewise opal comes in a variety of body colors with various other colors dancing on the surface. Both of these stones come in a variety of price ranges and could be the perfect accent to a fall wardrobe. 

This list is by no means exhaustive. There are so many gemstones that it would be nearly impossible to list them all, but I do hope that this has inspired you to take time to explore off the "beaten path" of gemstones. Happy fall!

Kathleen Marino MA, GG, AJP, NAJA

Photos courtesy of Gemselect, Rio Grande, Blue Nile and Scientific Explorer, Artfire, Gem Line Inc, and GIA

Star Wars Official Jewelry

starwars2

It's Friday! And not just any ordinary Friday but Force Friday!
What does this mean to the jewelry world? Well Berlin-based designer Malaika Raiss has acquired a license from Lucas film to create a 20-piece themed collection under her MalaikaRaiss brand.
Described by the brand as “part fashion, part fine” it features famous characters and spacecrafts. Some of the designs will be in 18-karat yellow or rose gold and some with diamonds.
Two designs have been released: a Darth Vader pendant and a pair of Imperial Shuttle post earrings, both in yellow gold.
The launch is slated for November. 

Happy Mother's Day

Long regarded as an omen of good fortune and happy marriage, this precious peony brooch, circa 1940s-50s, is lovingly rendered in hand carved angel skin coral with realistically textured 14K gold stem and leaves that beautifully support the deckle-e…

Long regarded as an omen of good fortune and happy marriage, this precious peony brooch, circa 1940s-50s, is lovingly rendered in hand carved angel skin coral with realistically textured 14K gold stem and leaves that beautifully support the deckle-edged, wispy folds of the lush, full bloom.
From Lang Antiques

Happy Mother's Day to all the mothers past preset and future.

Thank you for all that you do to shape us into the people that we are. Thank you especially to my mother who has always encouraged me, pushed me, and told me the truth. I love you. 

                                                                                   


Sentimental Technology: The Galatea Momento Pearl

The Galatea Momento Pearl

The Galatea Momento Pearl

I am a big fan of Kickstarter. Crowd-funding can lead to all sorts of products being produced that would never would have seen the light of day by other means. Kickstarter has especially influenced the wearable technology industry. The Galatea follows in the same vein as wearable technology; however, there is a key difference. Where most wearables focus on utility, the Momento Pearl focuses on sentiment. 
The heart of the modern jewelry industry is essentially born out of sentiment and emotion. Coupled with the unique use of modern technology, Galatea has capitalized on these moments. 
An NFC chip embedded in a cultured pearl allows a message or a photo to be associated with the pearl. The photo or message can then be retrieved by tapping the pearl to “a sweet spot” on the back of an NFC enabled Android device. Sorry iOS users, the technology just isn’t there yet. 
The pearls are available in a variety of settings, as well as being available in the patented “Galatea pearl”, the only pearl grown with a gemstone (usually man-made opal) inside.
Being a bit of a wearable technology junkie I just had to check this out for myself. 
I backed the project at the early bird stage so I paid $95.00 for a white carved "honeycomb" pattern pearl in 18k white gold. The expected retail price of the pearl jewelry is in the $400.00 range, but the exact retail scale of costs remains to be seen.

As promised, the Momento Pearl arrived well in time for Mother's Day, which was brilliant timing on their part. It even contained a To: and From: postcard if the item was to become a gift!  Before I even looked at the necklace I was struck by just how much material about the company and other products that Galatea offer accompanied the necklace. It is clear that this is being marketed towards the retail world even though they capitalized on the general public's support during their Kickstarter campaign. This was incredibly evident from the letter detailing extra products for customers and how to show your customers how to use the device. I set aside the catalogs for later because I was too excited to check out the pearl.

As the Kickstarter promised, I received the necklace as well as a rubber bracelet that they said would help the user to locate the NFC chip in the back of their device. 
The pearl has an interesting look. I wasn't sure I would be a fan of the carved honeycomb pattern, but it does offer the wearer a unique look to their pearl jewelry and light does play off the "facets" when viewed closely.  Included in the jewelry box with the necklace was a small scroll tied with a ribbon. This gives instructions for using the pearl in very easy to follow steps. 
 

The instructions for using the pearl and bracelet were very straight forward: simply touch the bracelet or the pearl to the back of the Android device and it opens up the Google Play (app) store. Install the free app and you are good to go. From then on touching the bracelet or pearl will open the app.

Once the app is open you are given the choice to associate a voice recording, photo, website, or written message. I tried all of the options that were given to me on the app and all of them worked really well. It is easy to change the associated images. If the app is not associated with any of the choices it will take you directly to the Youtube advertisement for the Momento Pearl.

I could easily see the Momento Pearl being popular for mothers, grandmothers, daughters, significant others etc. It reminds me very much of the recordable greeting cards, but with the added bonus of it not ending up in the trash soon after.
Perhaps the description of the Momento Pearl taken from their website says it best:
"Imagine being able to say 'I Love You" repeating into eternity or being able to record your wedding vows in an anniversary gift worn close to the heart. With just a tap of your phone to this pearl you can listen to your children's laughter or see your loved one's face. The Momento Pearl requires no battery and no wire. Think of it as a digital locket for the 21st century. "
The future of the popularity of the Momento Pearl remains to be seen, but the selling point of saving memories obviously appeals to a lot of the buying public. For now I see it as another step closer towards the marrying of technology and aesthetics, of incorporating sentimentality into what used to be a purely function based product group.

 About Galatea by Artist (from linkedin)
Galatea: Jewelry by Artist of San Dimas, California, was founded in 1994 by Chi Huynh. With an uncompromising artistic vision, Huynh has created some of the world’s most beautiful and unusual jewelry including the Momento Pearl, Diamond in Pearl, Galatea Pearl, Illusia and DavinChi Cut Collections. Today, Galatea manufactures its proprietary designs in the U.S. and Vietnam and sells to approximately 1200 retail jewelers throughout the United States. In 2009, Galatea established a South Sea pearl farm off the coast of central Vietnam in the South China Sea. The company also distributes its product lines in Europe and Asia. For additional information about Galatea: Jewelry by Artist, please visit the website at www.galateausa.com

Kathleen Marino M.A, G.G., AJP, NAJA

My better half used the bracelet on the phone and lost his privileges thereafter.

Galatea Momento Pearl

The March towards merging tech and jewelry, function and form continues with Galatea’s patented Momento Pearl project. 
An NFC chip embedded in a cultured pearl allows a message or a photo to be associated with the pearl. The photo or message can then be retrieved by tapping the pearl to “a sweet spot” on the back of an NFC enabled Android device. Sorry IOS users, the technology just isn’t there yet. 
The pearls are available in a variety of settings, as well as being available in the patented “Galatea pearl”, the of Pearl grown with a gemstone inside. 
Galatea is currently crowd sourcing their product on Kickstarter, offering products as backer rewards. For more information or to back the project visit Galatea on their Kickstarter page.